West Coast Mountain Guides Conditions Blog

Point Five Gully on 8th April

April 18th, 2013

Hi Alan,

It was a shame to not get out with Spike on Sunday but I did mange to follow your footsteps up the point on 8th April.  A great day out but with a bit more “typical” conditions than it looked like you had. Would also like to post if anyone found a screw on the main path down after the zig-zags then it would be gratefully received back again!

Cheers

Richard

Eastern Corner in Creag Meagaidh

April 14th, 2013

Hi Alan, was over in Creag Meagaidh with intentions of doing Staghorn gully with Robin but ended up doing Eastern Corner which had some great ice for 150m. Dylan has been up three Munro’s since April 6th. I let Robin lead this sustained grade 3 and he’ll probably send you some pics. He did a grand job and this is a great climb on ice for 150m and worth at least 2 stars.

Smith’s looked great but Ritchie’s had a nasty looking cornice which will probably fall today.

I have attached 1 pic of the route with Robin above me and have also attached 2pics of Dylan on Ben Lomond trig and on Carn a Tuirc summit cairn nr Glenshee.

He’s done 7 Munro’s under winter conditions since Dec – I think he’s looking forward to some warmer days though and he’s also now hooked on Madras curry after every day out bagging! The traditional Christie mountainering culture has an assured future I think.

All the best,
Ken

Wet and windy for a while

April 14th, 2013

Yesterday on Ben Nevis and in Glen Coe. The first heavy rain in almost two months came in last night, but still plenty of snow and ice on the high tops and the forecast suggests more snow heading in on westerly and north-westerly winds. Winter still has legs up north!

Right Twin today

April 13th, 2013

Picture taken by Adele Pennington on Right twin today, good conditions but exit a bit dodgy!

Ben Nevis mountain path requires care

April 12th, 2013

Hi Alan.

Thought you might like these for the blog ………. not a bad effort for an old ‘un (and mum did really well too!) pretty impressive for a 73 year old!! ……….. we should all have a few mountain days left in us yet!!! 5 1/2 hours up and about 3 1/2 down.

Typical Ben day. Icy on the zig zags, few snow flurries during ascent and descent and zero viz on the summit plateau. I was disappointed that mum didn’t get the views, but she didn’t mind as she said it was more exciting as it was. Lovely and clear below plateau level with great views, so a nice contrast. Usual selection of ill equipped people about. Possible to wander about in Merrel approach shoes (seemingly!!!!!) but much easier in crampons from about mid way up the zig zags. Compass essential on plateau as some cairns buried and you couldn’t see from one to another anyway ………… didn’t seem to stop some people though!!

Cheers

Dave

Still good for a day or two

April 11th, 2013

We have some storms approaching over the weekend, but they look as though they will dump snow on the high ground as the systems move through. Winter will persist on Ben Nevis for a while longer. Yesterday Scott Kirkhope sents these photo in from a CMD traverse.

Ben Nevis North Face Ben Nevis North Face CMD Arete CMD Arete Spot the (2) Ptarmigan! Spot the (2) Ptarmigan!

New web cam

April 10th, 2013

An upgraded webcam has been installed. Check it out and you might see Adele Pennington climbing in the superb conditions that we have just now. Thanks for the photos Adele.

"tower Ridge" Tower Ridge last week "tower ridge" Tower Ridge last week "tower ridge" Tower Ridge last week

The best of days with the Prof

April 6th, 2013
It's your lead!! It’s your lead!! Approaching the first belay Approaching the first belay Second belay below the 'Rogue' pitch Second belay below the ‘Rogue’ pitch On the Rogue pitch. Easy bridging for a hands off photo On the Rogue pitch. Easy bridging for a hands off photo Easier top pitches of Point Five Gully yesterday Easier top pitches of Point Five Gully yesterday Late afternoon, two climbers savouring the final slopes of Tower Ridge Late afternoon, two climbers savouring the final slopes of Tower Ridge Final slopes of Tower Ridge Final slopes of Tower Ridge Summit buddies Summit buddies

A great day out from the CIC Hut with my good friend and fellow guide David Hopkins. The conditions on Ben Nevis are flawless just now and even with a 1500hr start we managed the route and descended for a comfortable night in the CIC Hut. Anyone who comes across a BD Ice Screw and also a single ankle gaiter, please consider returning them to me, thanks!

More good climbing

April 4th, 2013

 

Thanks to Adele Pennington for these photos taken on Number Six Gully today. Still great conditions and they look set to stay for at least another week, maybe more!

Descent from Number Six Gully into Coire nam Beith Descent from Number Six Gully into Coire nam Beith Final pitch on Number Six Gully today Final pitch on Number Six Gully today Crux pitch on Number Six Gully today Crux pitch on Number Six Gully today

Great Ice Climbing

April 3rd, 2013

Sgurr Finnisg-Aig dave barker2

Thanks to Dave Barker, Spike Sellers and Adele Pennington for these photos taken this morning early before heading off to work. Sgurr Finnisg-aig is the climb below the Aonach Mor Gondola area,


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