Archive for June, 2012

Stetind

Friday, June 29th, 2012

Stetind is the national mountain of Norway and the four of us visited the summit over midnight on 28th June. Dave and I via the normal route and Tony and Spike climbed the fabulous South Pillar. Now on the plane with free wifi enroute to Edinburgh and more rain! More photos to follow from this very successful trip at this link

Reine Slab (Reinesvaet)

Thursday, June 28th, 2012

Sea Breeze is in the top fifty routes of the Lofoten guide at around HVS 5a. However it has some pretty scrappy sections, plus an awful abseil descent. The route would benefit from some ‘significant gardening’ plus a new line of abseil stations down the crag. The good bits are very good though.

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We Lost

Sunday, June 24th, 2012

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Presten Vestpillaren

Sunday, June 24th, 2012

Watching the ‘footie’ in Henningsvear after a great day out with Tony and Spike on Presten West Pillar, 467 metres of impeccable climbing. The easiest sections are VS, but very few and overall the climb is graded E2 5b, six to eight hours and allow two hours for a leisurely descent. Start early to avoid too much heat on a good day. We managed the first four pitches before the sun hit us. It is of course possible at any time at this time of the year! Spike and Tony also climbed Ypperstepresten E1 5b over four pitches of delectable and well protected climbing. This climb leads to a big ledge (Storhylla) from where it is possible to follow a simple bolt and chain abseil descent.

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Sunny in Lofoten

Friday, June 22nd, 2012

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Climbs on Pillaren, were Coley Smoke and Child’s Play and Bare Blabaer. Then Forsidia on Svolvaergeite.

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Henningsvear

Thursday, June 21st, 2012

Today has been fairly damp in Henningsvear and no climbing. Plenty of interesting things to do though if it’s a first visit. Accommodation is reasonably priced at around £20 each in a self catering Rorbu, for four of us.

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Lofoten

Wednesday, June 20th, 2012

Just arrived en route to Lofoten. Climbed Klubrutta, grade around Very Severe on Eidetind, S.E. Buttress, a good starter, south of Narvik and with six good pitches. This is a holiday trip with Spike, Dave, Tony and yours truly.

Our accommodation included old fisherman’s huts (Rorbus) at £20 each a night, wild camping or just sleeping out under the stars. Fly Norwegian Air via Edinburgh – Oslo – Narvik/Harstad and rent a vehicle. Other climbers we met, felt it had been cheaper to fly into Sweden as car rental and food supplies are a lot cheaper in that country. Do your own research.

Lost Valley bridge closed

Friday, June 15th, 2012

Anyone considering walking or climbing from the Lost Valley in Glen Coe should read this The weather just now is not great, but drier conditions are just around the corner and recent dry conditions have been good for climbing.

Cloudy but dry

Friday, June 8th, 2012

Today it is still dry but a little cloudy, with patches of blue sky. Yesterday was busy with West Coast Mountain Guides teams out in a variety of locations. Spike Sellers is away rock climbing with a guest on Skye and in Coire Lagan yesterday on the magnificent Cioch Buttress, which must be the most extensive and continuous set of mountain cliffs anywhere in Britain. Al Halewood was training two folk for an attempt on the traverse of the Skye Ridge. This training involved climbing up and down Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis, practising the various forms of climbing, moving together roped, abseiling and solo climbing, which will be used on the Black Cuillin traverse. Anyone interested in training for the Skye ridge traverse should consider this outing. Up and down Tower Ridge, at least twenty times will be something like the amount of work minimally needed, plus a bivouac along the way before considering the Skye outing. Meanwhile Kenny Grant was out with a guest on the Aonach Eagach. A trivial scramble when compared to Skye!

More sunshine

Thursday, June 7th, 2012

I hear that the hosepipe ban could be lifted in the damp south! Still dry and sunny up north folks if you want to avoid the rain, storms and crowds in Englandshire!!