Archive for January, 2012

Aonach Mor and Lochan (Glen Coe) today and Point Five yesterday

Tuesday, January 31st, 2012

Hi Alan,

Some strong winds blowing up the East side of Aonach Mor today. We abseiled down Tunnel Vision then climbed up taking the right hand exit. The lower section was holding quite a lot of soft snow while the top two pitches were nice and solid. The cornices we could see looked relatively small and solid. Attached are a couple of shots, (all I could manage in the blustery conditions).

Cheers Chris

Also thanks to Krister for some photos of Point Five Gully, a Swedish IFMGA guest staying  at Calluna.  Alpine Madness

And from David Hormigo

Hey up Alan.

On Twisting Grooves in the Lochan today. Lean, but what snow was on it was helpful. Frozen turf, no need to clean for gear – nice. Upper chimney dry. Folks on Moonshadow – similarly lean but they were moving ok. Twisting gully right hand not in so they got onto moonshine from the standard twisting gully route. SC not quite there yet. Folks on Ordinary route (Central Buttress), Langsam, Spectre, NC and Dorsal as usual.

Ben Nevis and Creag Meagaidh today

Monday, January 30th, 2012

Hi Alan,

Attached are a couple of shots taken today during our journey up Two Gully Buttress. It was pretty windy up there today with a fair bit of snow getting blown around but the views we had more than made up for it.



Also some good shots from Spike Sellers, who enjoyed a quiet trip away from the Nevis crowds into Creag Meagaidh today, with Dan, James, Liam and Alex. After this post it may be different tomorrow! The top slopes of the climbs in Meagaidh are notorious for avalanches, so a well chosen exit route is advised if unsure.

Vanishing Gully

Monday, January 30th, 2012

Thanks to Krister Jonsson for these two photos of Vanishing Gully taken yesterday. The conditions from the route look better than from a distance, although it will probably be more difficult than usual. We now have a settled weather system for a few day and the conditions on Ben Nevis are pretty good. Krister is staying with us at Calluna and hopefully will send more photos as the week progresses.  Thanks Krister. We have some beds and mountain instructors available this week if anyone fancies a visit.

Plenty to go for and Good Weather

Sunday, January 29th, 2012

One report suggests awful ice on Zero Gully but better on Point Five Gully. That makes sense as Zero is lower down the hill. One brave team climbed Vanishing Gully today. Space in the bunkhouse this week and next.

Busy on Ben Nevis

Saturday, January 28th, 2012

Very busy today on Ben Nevis with queues on Two-Step Corner and The White Line area. No doubt other sectors as well. These pictures are thanks to Ken Christie on an ascent of Glver’s Chimney yesterday. Thanks Ken.

Great Weather Today

Friday, January 27th, 2012

Take Care of Avalanche

Thursday, January 26th, 2012

Today some avalanches have been set off, so take care. One party on the CMD Arete descended via the abseil posts into Coire Leis and triggered a small slide on a north facing aspect opposite the Little Brenva Face. Another slide occurred on a north-easterly facing aspect on Aonach Mor. The party on CMD Arete experienced some fairly strong wind that was redistributing the falling snow. Please consider reporting any avalanche activity on this website Your report will help create a wider historical picture of avalanche events and hopefully increase everyone’s awareness and ability to avoid being a  victim.

One team from West Coast Mountain Guides led by Nigel Hooker climbed Comb Gully. Another couple of guests at Calluna climbed Smiths Route. They heard a few big slides in the mist and also witnessed some brave souls going into Point Five Gully.

Matterhorn Blue

Thursday, January 26th, 2012

Looking into the early afternoon  gloom in Fort William (it started nice!) my mood is lifted by this rather splendid photo from Mike Anderson, currently ski-ing above Zermatt. Watch out for those mega Rostis Mike and thanks for the photo. Was that taken with  your Blackberry? I’m considering upgrading to a Samsung Galaxy. Trying to avoid an iPhone as its owners come over all precious and protective and dewy eyed and short sighted about the other possibilities on the market! Have a nice day.

The Matterhorn

More snow incoming

Tuesday, January 24th, 2012

Plenty of new snow on Ben Nevis today, but the avalanche hazard is HIGH in places and the temperature is set to rise, so keep away from gullies and big open snow slopes if possible. Ridges are the best option but the unconsolidated snow could prove arduous to upward travel! Some good ice is forming as shown in these two photos. Hadrians and Orion look to be building ice  and I’m sure Smiths and Indicator Wall area will be good BUT dangerous on the approach until the snow settles a wee bit. Take care.

Good weather today

Monday, January 23rd, 2012

Plenty of snow and good weather today on Ben Nevis

This week Calluna is busy with the BMG winter training course, plus a winter climbing and mountaineering course for West Coast Mountain Guides. Thanks to Spike Sellers for the photo above taken on his approach to the CIC Hut this morning, heading for Ledge Route with Greg and David.