Archive for April, 2010

Arran and dry rock

Thursday, April 29th, 2010

Fine weather on the Isle of Arran last week. Thanks to Cliff Smith for these photos. This venue is just within reach for days or weeks climbing courses or private guiding. Easily accessible by car or ferry from the mainland.


Wednesday, April 28th, 2010

The weather has turned mild and damp for the time being. Still plenty of snow and ice on Ben Nevis, but not sure of the quality at the moment. Probably lots of big lumps falling down. Colder weather set to move in later in the week.


Friday, April 23rd, 2010

Still plenty to climb on Ben Nevis. Just down from three days (2 nights) at the CIC Hut. Wednesday was by far the best day. Yesterday and today were pretty murky with loads of spindrift, especially on Point Five Gully. We cleared the gear from the recent accident on Point Five and cast off the rope to the foot of the route. The belay gear (slings and carabiners, etc) are available at my home if the owners wish to claim them. Red Wine is preferred!

The ice is still in very good shape, but today it snowed quite a lot above the hut and warmer weather is forecast. However, I’d be surprised if more climbing was not still possible in the weeks ahead. Thanks to Matt Smith for some photos in the posting.

Today on Nevis

Monday, April 19th, 2010

Indicator Wall

Indicator Wall

“Good wintery day on the Ben, freezing level around the hut and blowing snow across the plateau.  Enjoyed Indicator Wall Right Hand with a sustained and intricate 2nd pitch on a variety of ice types.  Lochaber MRT were in force on the plateau carrying out a rescue in Point Five Gully.”

Thanks to Rob Jarvis for this report

Good weather and new snow

Sunday, April 18th, 2010

Snow fell last night down to 600 metres and the forecast is set on the chilly side right through into late April. Plenty of good climbs still left complete on Nevis.

Fine Conditions

Saturday, April 17th, 2010

Thanks to Smiler Cuthbertson for this short report and photos from yesterday. Looking good on Nevis for the routes still hanging in. Need a guide, just call me! Alan Kimber that is!

……”Dry conditions interspersed with ice on the lower section. Upper (main) ridge and into Zero in perfect condition. Great stuff on the Ben (crampons on and off)”…..

Observatory Ridge topping out

Observatory Ridge lower section.

Snow returning!!

Friday, April 16th, 2010

Conditions high on the Nevis routes are good and we have had cold winds blowing and some overnight frosts. Point Five Gully has been climbed in May in previous years and if this continues it looks like this could be another good late season option. I once climbed Point Five Gully, Zero Gully and Orion Face on 23rd April. Thompson’s, Comb Gully and Green Gully were climbed today. Thanks to Rob Jarvis for the photos below taken today.

Wall to Wall Sunshine

Sunday, April 11th, 2010

For your amusement. Richard and I had a great weekend. Yesterday – Went for Orion. Not a lot there. Did Zero –seriously soft snow on the first three pitches. Today – The Seam (Sneachda) – wonderful rock climbing in crampons – superb. All in wonderful sunshine.

Hoping Green is still there tomorrow.

Al the best.

Smiler Cuthbertson

Thanks Smiler. More cold weather on the way should sort things out for some late winter fun on Nevis as this week and next weekend progresses. At least that is what the forecast predicts.

Lost a Phone

Saturday, April 10th, 2010

Anyone who finds a mobile phone in the Red Burn, please can you let me know? One of our ‘Bum-Sliding’ guests has lost one today:( Still plenty of ice and snow on Nevis, BUT it is a little soft in places and some big cornices were on the move today. Tower Ridge was in impeccable ‘nick’ by all accounts. Thanks to Al Halewood for these photos of Green Gully today.


Thursday, April 8th, 2010

Hey Alan,
twas I an d a mate on Satanic yesterday. We were going to do Riders but the ice was peeling off the initial slab so we backed off. Satanic was great but the whole area really needs a re-freeze as you know.
Alastair Robertson

Thanks Alastair, Alan.

Conditions are very damp and although there is still plenty of snow and ice around a big fall in temperature is required to bring it back into shape. Today I was on the West Face of Aonach Mor and the turf is still well frozen, but for how long for? The forecast drop in overnight temperatures may do some good next week so watch this space and check out The Weather Outlook to see that the middle of April looks set to get cold again.