Archive for March, 2010

Lots of Snow

Wednesday, March 31st, 2010

Heading north to Ben Nevis and Glen Coe over Easter? Check Road Conditions We have had some big dumps of snow but the weather looks as though it is calming down now and High pressure weather may start to dominate as next week progresses. Maybe frosty nights and warm days, which MIGHT lead to good climbing in some places. However, the large amounts if snow which have fallen on strong winds over the last two days will have created high avalanche hazard, so good route choice is the key to survival.

Lost Ice Screws

Wednesday, March 31st, 2010

Hi, I was climbing up at the cic hut cascades yesterday (30th march) and managed to misplace a bag containing 6 ice screws either at the entrance of the cic hut or underneath the organ piped somewhere. I would really appreciate if you could maybe put this message on your website to see if anyone had found them. Can e-mail for more detailed description of contents if needed.

Many Thanks

Adam Noble

Tower Ridge Today

Monday, March 29th, 2010

Plenty of teams out today climbing on various routes all over Ben Nevis, prior to the forecast dump of new snow. The ice was in good order.

Cornice Capers

Monday, March 29th, 2010

Cornice Capers


We were on Aonach Mor for my wife Tania’s first winter route today; only one other person on the crag, and not difficult to see why; massive cornices! We did Right Twin, which was vertical for the first 12-15′, and then required a tunnel through the cornice; some going for a Grade II!  Anyone else is welcome to use the tunnel;-) Cracking neve though.

Duncan Francis

Thanks Duncan, good effort. Will Tania be going climbing again?:)

Magnetic Ice

Sunday, March 28th, 2010

Hi Alan,
Great conditions on the Orion Face, I did Astral Highway yesterday and the ice on the pitches out of the basin was almost of the ‘magnetic’ variety. Spindrift was an issue, however this was frequently being blown uphill!Many teams on Orion Direct with a bit of a traffic jam on the pitch out of the basin.

Long live winter!

Cheers Kenny

Rock climbing is on hold

Sunday, March 28th, 2010

…”Cold throughout the coming week and the Easter Weekend. By Wednesday (31st) there will have been a considerable dump of snow from the eastern and southern Highlands of Scotland south to Cumbria, with the whole of the Southern Uplands bearing the brunt – up to 3 ft of ‘level’ snow will lie in enormous drifts. Beyond, further snow will fall almost daily, mainly on northern and western mountains, as clusters of heavy showers come in, although at low levels there will be gradual thawing”…
From the Mountain weather information service, so keep your chalk balls dry for the time being!

Lost Camera

Sunday, March 28th, 2010

Yesterday some climbers misplaced a digital camera in the summit shelter on Ben Nevis. If anyone reading this blog found the camera, please consider returning it. Call me on 01397700451.


Good Conditions

Sunday, March 28th, 2010

Those folk staying in our bunkhouse have reported very good ice climbing on Ben Nevis today. Tower Scoop was very busy and Green Gully received top marks as well.

Good Ice – Deadly Spindrift

Sunday, March 28th, 2010

Yesterday the spindrift was very annoying and we followed two teams down Observatory Gully who had bailed out of Point Five Gully. Some ropes had a decent enough day and Astral Highway – Slav Route – Orion Face and Albatross were climbed amongst others. The ice is very good, but the wind needs to reduce a little. Cold weather now approaching and set to run into Easter as well.

Nevis Conditions

Friday, March 26th, 2010

For your info we did .5 today and found the 3rd pitch quite cheeky, semi consolidated steep snow that required lots of clearing with poor gear. On descent we spoke to another group who had bailed off Thompsons due to the conditions. Fingers crossed for some low freezing levels.

Thanks Chris.