Archive for April, 2009

Aonach Eagach

Wednesday, April 29th, 2009

Still plenty of snow laying in the easy north-facing couloirs on Bidean.

No snow on the Aonach Eagach ridge today.

Good views towards Garbh Bheinn and Ben Nevis.

Glorious Glen Nevis

Thursday, April 23rd, 2009

Well done Ed Grindley and the Friends of Ben Nevis for
Cleaning up Polldubh Crags

Glorious Cairngorms

Thursday, April 23rd, 2009

Hi Alan,

Saw the “Glorious Ben Nevis” and thought you may like some from Sneachda also from Sunday. We did the Fiacaill Couloir, which turned out to be a bit scrappy on the first 2 pitches, then much better at the top.
From what we could see, Jacobs Ladder, Aladdins Couloir and Central Gully were still complete.
Check out the photos at Tims Blog



Thanks Tim

Glorious Ben Nevis

Thursday, April 23rd, 2009

Hi Alan
Thanks for your excellent blog.
We were staying at Corpach last week – weather was fantastic – warm and sunny – brilliant.
Did CMD Arete on Sunday (12th) – excellent conditions – pics attached in case you would like to post them.
Best wishes

Fine Weather

Thursday, April 23rd, 2009

Ben Nevis yesterday.

A fine spell of good weather with the odd showery day. The high peaks still have significant snow packs, especially in the sheltered spots on north faces. Most of the ice routes are pretty rotten on Ben Nevis, but any cold weather with frosts will bring them back quickly. The big easy snow gullies will provide plenty of opportunities for a quiet ascent to the plateau for a few week to come. Be careful of falling rocks and cornices though.
However, it is definitely heading into rock climbing weather.

Thanks to all of those good people who have sent in various reports and stories over the winter. Feel free to let us all know what you are up to in the months to come. Anywhere in the world will do:)

Curved Ridge is Good

Monday, April 20th, 2009

The final few metres onto Crowberry Tower. A much better finish to the summit after ascending Cruved Ridge.

Plenty of dry rock and no snow at all on Curved Ridge.

Rannoch Wall in good shape and very dry today.

Agags Groove.

Good Ice

Monday, April 20th, 2009

Just to let you know winter is still hanging on. These pics were taken on Saturday 18th on Raeburns Easy with near perfect snow and ice, people on Number 2 reported perfect neve from bottom to top Ian and Nigel have been trying to get this route in good condition when they have been about for three years now and it was third time lucky.
Thanks guys. Yes, I thought that any frost would produce near perfect conditions. I might just try a late trip up Smiths Route myself before it all falls down. Smiths and Point Five Gully were climbed at the weekend, I hear.

Dry Rock

Monday, April 20th, 2009

Hi Alan,
We had a wonderful week last week based in Arisaig. Haven’t seen it so sunny and warm in Scotland at any time of year for a while now. I got out on Solitaire on Aonach Mor with my eldest(16)on Sunday 12th. Like you said the approach was on grass and there was no snow/ice on the route anywhere. So we had a good easier grade rock climb with a good few grassy passages also. We were rewarded with a big snow drift on the plateau at the top of the route and a snow shower just to remind us winter hadn’t quite gone.
Wednesday climbed The Gutter on Polldubh slabs which was fun and then on Thursday went up Ben Nevis on the tourist track with the crowds. Plenty of snow on the top and some good cornices to see and a singing Snow Bunting at the summit shelter.
Found a Garmin GPS on the approach to Solitaire on 12th. Do you now of anyone reporting having lost one on your blog? It’s very wet and not sure it will ever work again but I’m willing to re-unite it with its owner if they can be traced. So that’s all for another winter. Thanks for the advice and the brilliant blog, keep it going. Will be looking at it over the summer and then back for the daily look again next winter season.

Thanks Jon. Now the rock climbing is good and dry.

Cornice Alert

Wednesday, April 15th, 2009

Walkers approaching the summit of Ben Nevis and walking towards the camera (Gardyloo Gully).

Cornicing above Gardyloo Gully now! The undercut is at least 4m deep and most walkers are approaching the edge much closer than that. Maybe a temporary sign warning walkers of the danger.

Thanks to Andy Cloquet for the pictures above.

Thanks Smiler

Tuesday, April 14th, 2009

Tower Ridge

Fiacaill Couloir

Tower Ridge

Afterthought Arete

Hi Al,
Re Andys report of me being on Tower Ridge yesterday. I left the nice-looking rope and its fixings half-way up the lower tower on purpose, as someone will surely be back for it!
A superb day and conditions don’t get much better on the ridge.

I’ll send you a picture or two of this weekend.



Thanks Smiler. Good to see the late winter conditions hanging in. A frost or two just now would be good.