Archive for March, 2009

Ledge Route

Sunday, March 29th, 2009

Alan, Did Right-Hand Chimney on Moonlight Gully Buttress (seemed very hard for the grade?) and then North Trident Buttress. Thought that you might like this (unusual?) view of Ledge Route from Moonlight Gully Buttress. Duncan
Thanks Duncan. As you say the shot of Ledge Route is unusual and well composed and has a lot of character. Right-Hand Chimney is pretty hard for a IV and relies on good placements at crucial moves. If the placements are ‘sketchy’ the route can be quite thought provoking.


Sunday, March 29th, 2009

Strong winds and deep new snow.

On Ledge Route today.

Lots of wind and fresh snow and one one person avalanched down Number Four Gully for 300 metres, even after abseiling in and testing the slope.

Keep your fingers crossed

Saturday, March 28th, 2009

The week ahead looks pretty similar to at least a couple of weather patterns we have seen this winter. It depends where the high pressure decides to lay its head. Check out Ten days Weather and you can see we are never far away from some cold air. Watch out for falling cornices though if it gets a little milder. The ice high on Ben Nevis is ‘fat’ and will not go missing for a while yet. He said hopefully:)

A very good day

Saturday, March 28th, 2009

Thanks to Tom Parkin for all of these pictures taken today.

Queues on Glovers Chimney and Tower Ridge.

A busy day on Number Three Gully Buttress and Two-Step Corner,

Neptune Gully, North Trident Buttress.

Winter keeps trundling on and the week ahead looks both mild and cold from time to time.

Not enough ice on The Curtain

Good forecast next week

Saturday, March 28th, 2009

Head north folks. BBC weather were showing high pressure, good weather into the week ahead. Conditions should be good.

More lost gear

Friday, March 27th, 2009

Hi Alan. Climbed Glovers Chimney yesterday on excellent ice and with the top chimney in good condition. This said, I did however manage to drop a Petzl Aztar hammer from the first belay. Any chance you could post this on your website to see if any kind soul chanced upon it? Many thanks Alex Wheeldon.
mobile: 07792 462551

More Ice Forming – Windy

Thursday, March 26th, 2009

Glovers Chimney area today

Number Three Gully Buttress area today

Thanks to David Haygarth for these photos taken from Coire na Ciste on Ben Nevis today. Pretty good effort getting that far David in the blizzard conditions today.

Tomorrows avalanche hazard is set to increase.

Tower Ridge

Wednesday, March 25th, 2009

Thanks to Gillian Culshaw for these pictures taken on Tower Ridge today. It turned out less cold than expected, but still pretty wintry. More cold and snowy weather to come in the next week.
Hadrians Direct and Point Five Gully look okay in this shot.

The initial hard pitch on Tower Ridge out of the Douglas Gap.

Douglas Gap Gully East.

An interesting shot showing some ice forming down Mega Route X. It is probably to thin to climb, but just goes to show how cold it is becoming.

Thanks to David Haygarth for this photo looking into Italian Climb from Coire na Ciste on Ben Nevis today.

More dropped stuff

Wednesday, March 25th, 2009

Hi there Alan.
My name is Dave Sharpe and I’m a young lakes based climber who has stayed at your bunkhouse a couple of times. I’m getting in touch to ask a small favour. I was up climbing Observatory Buttress yesterday (24th March) on the Ben and managed to drop a small rack of large wired nuts. We went back around down Tower gully to look but they weren’t there and i think someone may have picked them up in passing. I think your site is excellent for checking conditions and i use it a lot. I’ve noticed you sometimes spread the word about ‘lost’ kit dropped on routes etc, and wondered if you wouldn’t mind mentioning the nuts on your blog. I would be very grateful…
They are 5/6 wired nuts of around size 6 and up on a single crab, and are all marked with green / yellow and black electrical tape.
On the plus side the route was in good condition with fat ice most of the way after avoiding the fist pitch by going right. The only problem being the amount of spindrift coming down at times…!
I will be dotting around Fort William for a while and should anything turn up will be contactable on this email address or mob no:07706 043407.
Many thanks!
Dave Sharpe.

Two-Step Corner

Wednesday, March 25th, 2009

Hi Alan,
Been on the Ben today and climbed Two Step Corner and Indicator Wall. Found the routes to be in great shape with good screws for the most part. Some slab is building up in Observatory Gully area in small pockets and it did not really feel that cold but lots of ice seems to be forming. Have attached a photo that Matt Stygall took of me on Two Step

Cheers Chris Walker

Great Picture Matt, thanks.