Archive for the ‘Cairngorms’ Category

Headed East

Thursday, March 13th, 2014

With the warm temperatures and rain forecasted we headed to the Cairngorms for some mixed climbing. It was warm there too but their were no cornices above the Fiacaill Buttress. Gaz and Michael climbed Invernookie, it was in good condition with plenty of ice to climb the snow was getting soft towards the end of the day. We climbed The Seam it was wet but had some good ice in the back of the cracks. Fiacaill couloir had a steady stream of people going up it. Not much else happening in the rest of the corrie because of the risk of cornices.

good ice on the Seam.

good ice on the Seam.

spot the climbers

spot the climbers

Coire an Lochain! looks menacing  at the moment.

Coire an Lochain! looks menacing at the moment.

A wild weekend

Monday, February 24th, 2014

It been a wet and wild weekend here in Scotland, but not all is lost.

We had teams out climbing on Saturday making the most of the weekend. Andy was climbing with Robert and Jonathan, they climbed Curved Ridge. They reported it was good fun, but a tad moist! Scott was out with Bart and Martin, they headed to the SW ridge of the Douglas Boulder on Ben Nevis. Jamie was out in Glen Coe, they headed in to SCNL for some winter skill. On the Sunday all teams wisely all went to the Ice Factor. It was not a day to be on the hill. Plenty of avalanches were reported over the day. This is the thaw  we have been waiting for, it will hopefully settle the Ben down and bring some of the classic route into condition.

I was over on the east climbing with Scott, John, Ian and Chris. They climbed Fiacaill Couloir and Invernookie, both were in very good condition. Next Day we headed round to Lurcher,s with the aim of climbing North Gully. It was very busy, so we settled for one of the grade three gullies to the left of North Gully. Some nice ice climbing in the sun and no wind.

Martin and Bart on SW Ridge DB

Martin and Bart on SW Ridge DB

SW Ridge DB

SW Ridge DB

Jonathan and Robert on Curved Ridge

Jonathan and Robert on Curved Ridge

LOADS of water!

LOADS of water!

The ice is holding in their. It will get better when the cooler temps arrive again.

The ice is holding in their. It will get better when the cooler temps arrive again.

Plenty snow remaining

Saturday, April 20th, 2013

Hi Alan

Had a superb day on the Cairngorm plateau today (19th April). Ascended via the Fiacaill Buttress to Cairn Lochan and then walked over to Ben Macdui (for tremendous clear views) and returned via the spur E of Lurcher’s Crag. Pretty quiet on the mountains – a few ski tourers and other walkers, but a lovely tranquil day with no wind and plenty of bright sunshine.

There is an amazing amount of snow on the plateau and corrie headwalls for late April. A few pics attached which may be of interest.

Best wishes

Roy Starkey

Thanks Roy for these lovely photos.

Snow maker

Thursday, January 17th, 2013

"Snow making"

Cairngorm snow making machine. Can some one point it at the Orion Face and turn the settings to ice? Must play hell with the electricity meter! I thought these machines were for use in places where there is not a lot of snow. The far horizon suggests that Scotland is not short of snow just now!

Wintry storms

Sunday, December 30th, 2012

Yesterday we escaped from the west coast squalls by visiting the Cairngorms. Today the weather in Fort William is very wintry, with snow down to 300 metres and plenty of gusty, wet weather at lower levels. Be careful with route choice and check out the avalanche forecast

Full winter is back

Tuesday, April 17th, 2012

This report from Speyside (Jonathan Preston)……”Went into a waist deep drift when descending the Fiacaill ridge on Friday….   did Fallout Corner in Lochain on Saturday in full winter nick; things like Hooker’s were even more heavily rimed…  did a good little ski tour over to Macdui and back on Sunday — total snow cover on the plateau + more came down overnight and this morning..Same on Nevis and snow down well below 600 metres around Fort William.

Ice in the Norries and Glen Coe and Green Gully and Boomers Requiem

Friday, February 3rd, 2012

Hi Alan,

Pictures attached from today in SC Gully with Lee and Joe. Fantastic sunshine, -8 degrees C in the corrie and only a very slight breeze. The route is pretty thin and hacked up at the minute making it a bit more spicy than it normally would be. Plenty of other teams out enjoying the day.

Cheers Chris

Thanks to Tom Parkin and Will Green for the Ben Nevis photos taken today on Green Gully.


Hello Allan

Great climbing on the Raeburns Buttress and the Boomers route Serious business up the 3rd pitch though but over all a great climb!

An other great day on Ben Nevis! Where is the Famous Scottish weather? Krister

Very good weather Lost Axe Great ski-ing

Saturday, December 17th, 2011

Very calm and frosty weather with freezing down to sea-level and generally clear skies today around Ben Nevis. A friend and work colleague ‘Smiler’ Cuthbertson mislaid and axe in the Cairngorm car park yesterday. If you find it and need details of where to send it, check his blog.


Hi Alan.

Heres a couple of photos from yesterday on Meall Glas and Sgiath Chuill above Glen Dochart. Excellent snow conditions for skiing. We walked for about 20 mins before putting the skis on, then skiied all day. Hard work walking with alot of breakable crust from the guys we spoke to.

photo-1 is me and Ali on Sgiath Chuil loooking west to Meall Glas

photo-1 is Damon Powell skinning up Meall Glas.

Thanks for the work have a good Christmas with the family



Dropped Rebel Hammer

Friday, January 21st, 2011

Can any of you really honest climbers out there who climb Green Gully in the next twenty four hours and find a hammer, please return it to it’s owner, Chris Ensoll? Chris is staying with us this next week, so pop down to Calluna and get your free ‘dram’ and a slice of my wife’s flapjack.


By the way Green Gully is good.

Hi Alan

Just writing to let you know about conditions in the Cairngorms yesterday. First up it was a stunning day, deep blue skies and almost no wind. We went to Hells Lum and did Hells Lum gully and Brimstone groove, both in great condition although the sun was starting to affect the ice at the top of Brimstone groove later on.

Deepcut Chimney looked to be in good condition, but the Chancer has not touched down and parts of it were falling off once the sun got onto it. What wind there was came from the north so there were some small powder deposits near the top of the crag


Hi Alan

Another good day on the Ben.

Myself, Chris and Gillian headed up into Coire na Ciste and did Central-Right Hand which was in good condition with hero snow/Ice. Not taking screws though, so spaced protection.

We also did Wendigo also next to Central Right Hand. Excellent mixed route, with usable hero snow. The point was also done today by Guy, also Comb was climbed. Campbell will email some photo’s if you want for your blog.

Cold Russian Air

Monday, January 26th, 2009

As the next week progresses it appears that a very cold easterly could establish itself for a while into next week. In the meantime most of the snowpack will soften and harden under some small freeze/thaw cycles. Just what is needed in fact. Check out Weather Charts to see what I mean. Anything blue or green is colder air.

Hi Alan

Good ice over east was working there on Sunday almost continental with good ice all over Lurchers, sun soaked dry rock and no wind. Have attached a pic in case you dont believe me !!

Cheers Danny Dan Goodwin


A final shot from Rjukan a couple of days ago (Saboteurfossen, WI5***). Lots of new snow during the week and a bit of a thaw should be setting things up for some cracking conditions when it gets colder again. Returned to some typical Cairngorm weather on Fluted Buttress Direct!