Archive for the ‘Weather’ Category

Freezing level back down below the CIC hut

Thursday, March 27th, 2014

Some of the best ice of the winter on Hadrians today, awesome. Other deep drainage lines should be the same , may be a queue on Point Five, Smiths and Zero if reading this tomorrow…… Enjoy the ice, its been a long time to wait for it this winter. and long may it continue :-)

John on the first belay

John on the first belay

Higher up on the hero neve.

Higher up on the hero neve.

more good ice climbing high on the route.

more good ice climbing high on the route.

West Face Aonach Mor Alpine feel again

Wednesday, March 26th, 2014

Sunny side of the Mountain with southerly winds, Spare Rib Gully and western Rib combination picking the icy bits and best ridge bits on the sunny side of the mountain make this venue an excellent Alpine Ridge training ground, as well as queuing for the Telepherique from the valley!!

Back to the CIC hut tonight as well.

West Face Aonach Mor

Sunday, March 23rd, 2014

Today we headed to Western Rib to start a 5 day climbing course. Colin and in were both pleased to see the trail that had been put in Thanks to who ever put it in Legends. it was really busy on golden oldie which was plan A but Western Rib was quiet and really good fun. The views were outstanding (At last) even got a wee bit sun burnt. Andy was out with Andy and Marie on their last day. They looked to be having fun on Golden Oldie I hope the skiing is good for them tomorrow.

nice view.

nice view.

Colin on western Rib

Colin on western Rib

Andy and Marie on golden oldie

Andy and Marie on golden oldie

The team on  the top of Aonach Mor.

The team on the top of Aonach Mor.

Ben Nevis CIC 2nd week

Wednesday, March 19th, 2014

After a few days of perfect neve and the first winter ascents of many of the classic  Ben Nevis Vs  and others such as all the Minus Gullies, see last weeks posts, this week looked like it could have reaped a rich bag of routes from the CIC hut. The winter warm air arrived with the dreaded moisture element and we are back to ridges, at least for a few days, and hopefully a few more cornices are dropping to the valley floor over the gullies. Every day a major ridge bagged so far this week. NE Buttress, Observatory Ridge, Tower Ridge, Ledge Route and still a couple of days to go. Not such a bad bag of routes after all. It always pays to be in the mountains to get on the mountains!

Headed East

Thursday, March 13th, 2014

With the warm temperatures and rain forecasted we headed to the Cairngorms for some mixed climbing. It was warm there too but their were no cornices above the Fiacaill Buttress. Gaz and Michael climbed Invernookie, it was in good condition with plenty of ice to climb the snow was getting soft towards the end of the day. We climbed The Seam it was wet but had some good ice in the back of the cracks. Fiacaill couloir had a steady stream of people going up it. Not much else happening in the rest of the corrie because of the risk of cornices.

good ice on the Seam.

good ice on the Seam.

spot the climbers

spot the climbers

Coire an Lochain! looks menacing  at the moment.

Coire an Lochain! looks menacing at the moment.

CIC hut week

Friday, March 7th, 2014

We had a great week in the CIC hut despite the weather. Great company good routes and off course Whisky.

The team Eoin and Tim

The team Eoin and Tim

 

 

On Wednesday we climbed Gutless on the Douglas Boulder before the rain set in, we then retreated to the hut for tea and medals. A good route but best done with out a rucksack! On Thursday we had a late start thinking it was not going to be a day for climbing, but the weather cleared and the temps dropped a little bit and we climbed  Observatory Buttress. It was berried and had all types of ice on the route! We then enjoyed are last walk back to the hut via the CMD Arete and a good bum slide, oh and some more whisky. Thanks again to Eoin and Tim for the a great week. “Lets just go for a walk”

Tim battles with spin drift

Tim battles with spin drift

Ben Nevis Summit.

Ben Nevis Summit.

CIC route Book

CIC route Book

2nd pitch Gutless

2nd pitch Gutless

Shove tuesday.

Shrove tuesday.

Point 5 Cornice !

Point 5 Cornice !

Observatory Buttress

Observatory Buttress

Hut life.

Hut life.

Summi

Summit

NE Buttress

NE Buttress

 

CIC hut update

Tuesday, March 4th, 2014

Beautiful day yesteday  led the teams from the near buried CIC hut this winter onto the summit of the Ben via Newbiggings route and then onto the NE Buttress proper for an excellent weather window opportunity for the summit. We also had a team on Tower Ridge yesterday, another excellent outing amidst the wild days of this winter, persistence wins in the Scottish winter game.

The CIC hut team stayed a little lower today and grabbed a rare in condition winter, but technical ascent of Raeburns Arete under the First Platform on North East Buttress, superb was the verdict.

The Curtain was also climbed on Sunday by the team this week after the walk in with the weeks food, keen to get going!

The next 24 hours will bring an above the summit 0 degree isotherm, maybe the Point 5 monster cornice will fall to the bottom of Observatory Gully,  along with others, here’s hoping :)

 

 

 

South West Ridge of the Douglas Boulder

Sunday, March 2nd, 2014

Gaz was out yesterday with Neil and Stuart. It was the first day of the intro winter climbing weekend. They climbed the SW Ridge of the Douglas Boulder along with a few other teams.  Still a lot of snow being moved about so care was needed to get the route.

A good view at last.

A good view at last.

 

Good stance management on the SW Ridge.

Good stance management on the SW Ridge.

 

 

 

The snowy summit.

The snowy summit.

 

We have a CIC hut week starting today, so keep an eye out for condition up dates and routes they get done. pictures will be posted at the end of the week.

 

A wild weekend

Monday, February 24th, 2014

It been a wet and wild weekend here in Scotland, but not all is lost.

We had teams out climbing on Saturday making the most of the weekend. Andy was climbing with Robert and Jonathan, they climbed Curved Ridge. They reported it was good fun, but a tad moist! Scott was out with Bart and Martin, they headed to the SW ridge of the Douglas Boulder on Ben Nevis. Jamie was out in Glen Coe, they headed in to SCNL for some winter skill. On the Sunday all teams wisely all went to the Ice Factor. It was not a day to be on the hill. Plenty of avalanches were reported over the day. This is the thaw  we have been waiting for, it will hopefully settle the Ben down and bring some of the classic route into condition.

I was over on the east climbing with Scott, John, Ian and Chris. They climbed Fiacaill Couloir and Invernookie, both were in very good condition. Next Day we headed round to Lurcher,s with the aim of climbing North Gully. It was very busy, so we settled for one of the grade three gullies to the left of North Gully. Some nice ice climbing in the sun and no wind.

Martin and Bart on SW Ridge DB

Martin and Bart on SW Ridge DB

SW Ridge DB

SW Ridge DB

Jonathan and Robert on Curved Ridge

Jonathan and Robert on Curved Ridge

LOADS of water!

LOADS of water!

The ice is holding in their. It will get better when the cooler temps arrive again.

The ice is holding in their. It will get better when the cooler temps arrive again.

SCNL

Wednesday, February 12th, 2014

A couple of pictures from Andy R who was out on Dorsal Arete on Sunday. A lot of snow in the corrie and more has fallen over the last few days. Heres a link to some climbing footage in SCNL Keith Ball and James Thacker climbing Inclination http://vimeo.com/86490146.

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John on Dorsal Arete

The Nevis Range this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also on my day off last friday we (me and Adam Hughes) climbed Centurion on Carn Dearg Buttress. Here’s some pics what a cool route.

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