West Coast Mountain Guides Conditions Blog

Stob Ban

March 30th, 2014
Dion and Mike enjoying the good views

Dion and Mike enjoying the good views

Today Dion, Mike and myself headed up to Stob Ban for some Mont Blanc training. winds were light temps were just right all though it could have been colder. We Descended the north ridge which gave us some good sport and exposure on the snow crests. The weather did eventually clear and we were rewarded with some good views.

 

CIC Hut

March 28th, 2014

To day John and I climbed Thompsons route which was in excellent condition and with a nice walk to the summit and decent vis core Leis, it was a nice way to finish are quick hit to the cic hut. Sorry about the lack o pics my battery said no due to the cold.

Good conditions a lover the mountain at the moment and a lot of ice to go at as well. care is still needed as their are still some large cornices about. Point five’s is still very big. Routes climbed to day, Orion direct, Sickle, green gully tower ridge are the ones that I could see. I’m sure more got climbed. Defiantly worth a walk!

John enjoying Good snice on Thompsons.

John enjoying Good snice on Thompsons.

Freezing level back down below the CIC hut

March 27th, 2014

Some of the best ice of the winter on Hadrians today, awesome. Other deep drainage lines should be the same , may be a queue on Point Five, Smiths and Zero if reading this tomorrow…… Enjoy the ice, its been a long time to wait for it this winter. and long may it continue :-)

John on the first belay

John on the first belay

Higher up on the hero neve.

Higher up on the hero neve.

more good ice climbing high on the route.

more good ice climbing high on the route.

West Face Aonach Mor Alpine feel again

March 26th, 2014

Sunny side of the Mountain with southerly winds, Spare Rib Gully and western Rib combination picking the icy bits and best ridge bits on the sunny side of the mountain make this venue an excellent Alpine Ridge training ground, as well as queuing for the Telepherique from the valley!!

Back to the CIC hut tonight as well.

SCNL Twisting Gully

March 25th, 2014

Yesterday Colin and I heading in to SCNL to have a look. We found loads of snow and the trail from the previous day gone. We made our way slowly but steadily in to the corrie and eventually up to Twisting Gully. The wind was blowing strait up the crag so the gully was striped back to good climbable snow . we started up twisting groves looking for some interesting climbing as the the first main pitch of Twisting gully is almost gone.

twisting gully. nice views but windy!

twisting gully. nice views but windy!

a little further up the gully. wind assisted

a little further up the gully. wind assisted

Ah the iced mono a good indication of spin drift!

Ah the iced mono a good indication of spin drift!

Was good to get in the sun.

Was good to get in the sun.

West Face Aonach Mor

March 23rd, 2014

Today we headed to Western Rib to start a 5 day climbing course. Colin and in were both pleased to see the trail that had been put in Thanks to who ever put it in Legends. it was really busy on golden oldie which was plan A but Western Rib was quiet and really good fun. The views were outstanding (At last) even got a wee bit sun burnt. Andy was out with Andy and Marie on their last day. They looked to be having fun on Golden Oldie I hope the skiing is good for them tomorrow.

nice view.

nice view.

Colin on western Rib

Colin on western Rib

Andy and Marie on golden oldie

Andy and Marie on golden oldie

The team on  the top of Aonach Mor.

The team on the top of Aonach Mor.

Winter is back!

March 22nd, 2014

With a rather large dump of snow last night any idea of heading up ben nevis was put on hold! So me Steve and Richard wadded are way up to the East Ridge of the north top. brilliant fun loads of snow and some sun shine on the way down!

IMG_3451 IMG_3453

Sun Shine! not seen that  much.

Sun Shine! not seen that
much.

Second half of the CIC hut week.

March 22nd, 2014

Well the weather continued to be un helpful but with a few extra coffees in the morning and a few late starts we managed to get some climbing done, Garadh gully into glovers chimney (this was an expedition!), moonlight gully, an attempt on Observatory Buttress but the weather had other ideas one abseil and then tower scoop and upper tower cascade rescued the day. The Last day was an early start and it was a trip up to no.3 Gully buttress, and came away with two-step start in to no.3 Gully Buttress and Thompsons Route a good way to finish a full scottish week at the CIC Hut. IMG_3428 IMG_3426

Mike and Ian on tower ridge.

Mike and Ian on tower ridge.

Both teams on the top of no.3 gully buttress.

Both teams on the top of no.3 gully buttress.

Tim, Stephen and David

Tim, Stephen and David

Me, Ian and Mike

Me, Ian and Mike

Ben Nevis CIC 2nd week

March 19th, 2014

After a few days of perfect neve and the first winter ascents of many of the classic  Ben Nevis Vs  and others such as all the Minus Gullies, see last weeks posts, this week looked like it could have reaped a rich bag of routes from the CIC hut. The winter warm air arrived with the dreaded moisture element and we are back to ridges, at least for a few days, and hopefully a few more cornices are dropping to the valley floor over the gullies. Every day a major ridge bagged so far this week. NE Buttress, Observatory Ridge, Tower Ridge, Ledge Route and still a couple of days to go. Not such a bad bag of routes after all. It always pays to be in the mountains to get on the mountains!

Warm and wet but cold again tomorrow. Fingers crossed

March 14th, 2014

A wee bit wetter than forecasted this morning and a colder forecast we decided to move are climbing day till tomorrow. We are all hoping that the ice routes are holding in up on the ben time will tell.

In the mean time this is worth a read and considering when you are making plans to climb this week.

This not today! but lets hope it returns, fingers crossed.

This not today! but lets hope it returns, fingers crossed.

http://saismeagaidh.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/conundrum.html