West Coast Mountain Guides Conditions Blog

Today some avalanches have been set off, so take care. One party on the CMD Arete descended via the abseil posts into Coire Leis and triggered a small slide on a north facing aspect opposite the Little Brenva Face. Another slide occurred on a north-easterly facing aspect on Aonach Mor. The party on CMD Arete experienced some fairly strong wind that was redistributing the falling snow. Please consider reporting any avalanche activity on this website Your report will help create a wider historical picture of avalanche events and hopefully increase everyone’s awareness and ability to avoid being a  victim.

One team from West Coast Mountain Guides led by Nigel Hooker climbed Comb Gully. Another couple of guests at Calluna climbed Smiths Route. They heard a few big slides in the mist and also witnessed some brave souls going into Point Five Gully.

Plenty of new snow on Ben Nevis today, but the avalanche hazard is HIGH in places and the temperature is set to rise, so keep away from gullies and big open snow slopes if possible. Ridges are the best option but the unconsolidated snow could prove arduous to upward travel! Some good ice is forming as shown in these two photos. Hadrians and Orion look to be building ice  and I’m sure Smiths and Indicator Wall area will be good BUT dangerous on the approach until the snow settles a wee bit. Take care.

Plenty of snow and good weather today on Ben Nevis

This week Calluna is busy with the BMG winter training course, plus a winter climbing and mountaineering course for West Coast Mountain Guides. Thanks to Spike Sellers for the photo above taken on his approach to the CIC Hut this morning, heading for Ledge Route with Greg and David.

Thanks to Chris Ensoll for these photos taken today. The area right of Glovers Chimney has a lot of good climbing that lends itself to exploration. The White Line or The Gutter are popular lines and as can be seen from the photos the ice is pretty solid just now. A variety of lines are possible depending on the conditions. Sixty metre ropes come in handy. Thanks Chris.

Check out Lochaber Blog and Northern Cairngorms to see the difference in snow cover and climbing conditions, west and east. The west certainly benefited from the North Westerly storms that brought the big dump of snow some weeks back. The forecast is for more snow later this week, so lets hope that we all get a good amount, along with some decent weather. Today on Ben Nevis and Aonach Mor the climbing was good. Thanks to Andy Ravenhill for the photos of Nevis today

Thanks to the work carried out by Neil McGougan, John Orr and team, the roof on the CIC hut has been repaired and will be fully open from 16 January 2012

Regards
Robin

Robin Clothier
CIC Hut Ben Nevis

Anyone who retrieves two axes from The Cascade on Ben Nevis, please return them to Alan Kimber. They belong to a climber who fell from the route yesterday. If possible let me know exactly where you found them on the climb.

Thanks,

Alan Kimber

Today, plenty of climbing on a variety of areas from Tower Ridge – White Line – Glovers Chimney – Comb and Green Gullies – Quick Step by a mixed variant on the left side – Two-Step Corner  – Gargoyle Wall – Central Gully Right Hand and Left Hand. Probably some climbs out of Observatory Gully as well. The conditions are pretty ‘thin’ and more snow is needed but for now it is fine.